The 2014 Bienvenue Bâtard Montrachet Grand Cru has a come-hither bouquet that is very immediate: passion fruit, apricot blossom, cold stone and even a faint touch of strawberry winegums. The palate is well balanced with a keen line of acidity, good weight in the mouth with a touch of citrus lemon and lime, but perhaps just needing more complexity and terroir expression to come through on the finish. This is one of the best 2014 Bienvenues that I have come across -- an absolute delight.

(the grand crus were bottled about two weeks before my visit): Pale, bright yellow. Very subtle, scented aromas of lemon, flowers, noble herbs, white pepper and crushed stone. Sedate and harmonious in the mouth, with terrific intensity and sweetness to its floral and citrus flavors. Not especially fleshy or open-knit but this wine has the balance for a graceful evolution in bottle. Strong lemony acidity draws out the long, subtle, resounding finish.