(the grand crus were not yet bottled): A touch of reduction to the aromas of yellow fruits, minerals and hazelnut; very Puligny in style. Juicy, spicy and penetrating but smooth as well, with its fine-grained texture and pineapple fruit leavened by harmonious acidity. Finishes firm, seamless and long.

The 2016 Bienvenues Batard Montrachet Grand Cru was diminished from 22 to seven barrels this vintage. The bouquet demanded some coaxing from the glass, a little introverted following the Pucelles and Folatières. With time there are fleeting glimpses of wild mint and iodine. The palate is very balanced and harmonious, a pretty and feminine Bienvenues with nicely pitched acidity and a touch of orange peel and white peach toward the saline finish. I suspect it will drink earlier than Leflaive’s other grand crus.

Only seven of the usual 22 barrels made. Savoury and already quite complex nose with lovely breadth as well as corset of structure. Brilliantly bright fruit. Quite explosive on the palate. Very long. (JR)