Ripe, fruit-driven aromas of peach, mandarin orange and quince. Thicker, sweeter and larger-scaled than the Bienvenue; quite dry but rich and mouthfilling. Handles its alcohol gracefully. Very ripe and sweet.

As I had experienced a great deal of difficulty tasting through Domaine Leflaive's 1998s a year ago due to their high levels of sulphur, Anne-Claude Leflaive was kind enough to allow me to retaste them. The wine was opened two hours prior to my tasting it. The white and yellow fruit-scented 1998 Batard-Montrachet has excellent breadth to its almond, mineral, and pear-flavored character. Medium-bodied, plump, and satin-textured, it is the most harmonious of all of the domaine's 1998s. Anticipated maturity: now-2007. Importer: Wilson-Daniels, St. Helena, CA; (707) 963-9661.