The Leflaive 2015 Bâtard-Montrachet Grand Cru is a superb achievement in the 2015 vintage, wafting from the glass with a complex bouquet of white peach, fresh bread, pear, preserved citrus, beeswax and crisp yellow orchard fruit. On the palate, the wine is full-bodied, multidimensional and authoritative, distinguished by its sense of completeness and control, with terrific depth and amplitude and a long, reserved finish. The Bâtard is one of the high-points of the Leflaive range this year, fully realizing the potential of the vintage.

Very attractive, bright, flinty nose. Lively and light-footed for this appellation, here’s a graceful, medium-to full-bodied white Burgundy with good aging potential, in spite of having moderate acidity. Very long, silky finish. From biodynamically grown grapes. Drink or hold.

The 2015 Bâtard-Montrachet Grand Cru has a more masculine, introspective and earthier bouquet compared to the Bienvenue. The strictness and focus here are superb. The palate is very well balanced with a crisp line of acidity. There is good tension, saline and spicy in the mouth, animated even. Whilst it does not quite deliver the persistence at the moment, by the time it is in bottle that should be in situ. This is a very impressive Bâtard-Montrachet.

(13.6% alcohol, with 4.15 g/l total acidity): Bright pale yellow. Expressive nose combines fresh pineapple, stone and white flowers, plus a complicating leesy nuance. Richer, riper and broader-shouldered than the Bienvenue, conveying an impression of density and solidity. A touch more tannic and warm but not heavy on the long aftertaste, this full-bodied grand cru avoids coming off as heavy.