This teeters towards opulence, but the bright acidity, flinty reduction and very precise winemaking enable it to retain excellent balance. In spite of the ripeness and concentration, this remains graceful, the tannins and minerality building at the expressive finish, where everything fits beautifully. From biodynamically grown grapes. Drinkable now, but best from 2023.

The 2018 Bâtard-Montrachet Grand Cru has a touch more pungency compared to the Bienvenue, but perhaps not quite the same alluring charm, at least at this primordial stage. The palate is where it’s at: supremely well balanced, exuding a sense of coiled-up energy countered by a dense, persistent finish. A bit of a beast, but time will tame it.

Full-bodied, rich and concentrated, the 2018 Bâtard-Montrachet Grand Cru is a textural, elegantly muscular wine evocative of pear, toasted almonds, white flowers, peach and vanilla pod. Layered and powerful, it concludes with a long, saline finish. It's more dramatic and broader-shouldered than the suave, seamless Bienvenues-Bâtard-Montrachet this year.

1.91 ha (4.72 acres) of vines more than 40 years old. 25% new oak on the grands crus. Tank sample. Smells more creamy and rounded than the Bienvenues, more open-hearted. A little bit toasty and reductive (struck match) but subtle. Corseted by the acidity at the moment so it is almost lean but there is pent-up power and energy here. Beauty and refinement as well as all the concentration. (JH)