2020 Domaine Leflaive, Batard-Montrachet Grand Cru

The 2020 Bâtard-Montrachet Grand Cru is more backward on the nose compared to the Bienvenue at the moment despite rigorous coaxing. The palate has impressive weight and density, perhaps less finesse than the more approachable Bienvenue at the moment but with more aging potential. It feels long on the saline finish, but it's surly at this early stage.

The 2020 Bâtard-Montrachet Grand Cru is more powerful, unwinding in the glass with aromas of pear, ripe citrus fruit, peach, buttery pastry and baking spices. Full-bodied, satiny and multidimensional, it's a broad, muscular wine with racy acids and a long, saline finish.

Tank sample. Another, lithe, toned-up Bâtard. On the one hand broad, but athletic too. Brice de la Morandière notes this is not as imposing a wine as it has been in the past. (MH)