Robert Parker's Wine Advocate 30/09/2011 The 2009 Puligny-Montrachet Clavoillons emerges from the glass with plenty of sweet, caressing fruit. I especially like the way this blossoms on the mid-palate, while remaining relatively hushed. This understated Clavoillons impresses for it balance and sheer harmony. The integration of fruit, acidity and structure is terrific. Anticipated maturity: 2012+. Domaine Leflaive is one of the pioneers in biodynamic viticulture in Burgundy. The first experiments began in 1990 and by 1997 all of the vineyards had been converted to biodynamic farming. Winemaker Eric Remy describes the 2009 growing season in considerable detail. The winter was long but mild. The last frost occurred on March 23. Temperatures were normal until the last week of the month, when the weather turned warmer. Flowering began on May 22. The rest of the spring and summer were warm, while a big storm in mid-July dropped 8cm of rain. The rest of the summer was quite warm. The harvest began on September 5, about ten days earlier than normal. Average yields were around 45 hectoliters per hectare. The wines were aged for 12 months in oak followed by 6-8 months in steel. New oak ranged from 10% for the Bourgogne, 15% for the villages, 20% for the premier crus and 25% for the grand crus. The 2009s were bottled between April and June 2011.

Tasted out of stainless-steel tank at the Domaine. An understated bouquet, very tightly would at the moment with touches of green apple (granny Smith), pear and limestone. The palate has a certain femininity about it, very good acidity, a slight yeastiness on the entry fanning out economically in the mouth. This Clavoillon is refined and elegant. Tasted January 2011.

Bright yellow. Pineapple and honey on the nose and palate. A fleshy, rich fruit bomb in a distinctly fat, broad style. The pineapple flavor is firmed on the end by a citric quality but today this wine comes across as rather unrefined for a Leflaive premier cru. Made from big berries and well-aerated clusters, noted winemaker Remy, who said the pH of 3.3 was the highest among the 2009s.

The 2009 Puligny-Montrachet 1er Cru Clavoillon was lactic and prematurely oxidizing.

Particularly inexpressive on the nose. Something lightly mineral. Very precise and sculpted. Lots of passion-fruit sort of acidity and fruit – though nothing absolutely burgundian yet. Backward. Still quite chewy. (JR)