Another of this tasting's highlights was the 1992 Chevalier-Montrachet Grand Cru, an exotically aromatic vintage of this great wine that bursts from the glass with scents of fresh peaches, vine and citrus blossom, pear, mandarin oil and frangipane. It's full-bodied, broad and satiny, with an ample and envelopingly textural profile that displays considerable mid-palate volume, impressive depth and concentration and a long, precise finish. Produced from fully ripe, golden-hued grapes, the 1992's aromas could easily give the impression that the wine saw a little botrytis, yet I'm assured that this wasn't the case. By the numbers, it attained a pH of 3.08 and 14% alcohol—making it both lower in alcohol and lower in pH than both the 1990 and 1989—yet given this Chevalier's exotic character and extravagantly expressive style, the inverse could easily be imagined.

Millionaires should have fun debating whether the 1992 Batard-Montrachet or Chevalier-Montrachet is superior. The Batard is the more evolved and precocious of the two. Both are beautifully well-knit, expansively flavored, full-bodied, super-concentrated white burgundies that display honeyed, orange, roasted nut, overripe apple-scented noses, buttery, creamy textures, super extraction of flavor, and long finishes. The Batard exhibits more mineral scents in its nose and flavors, and is more upfront. The Chevalier-Montrachet appears to be holding more in reserve than the Batard. The Chevalier explodes on the back of the palate and looks to have greater longevity. Both are beautifully well-knit, expansively flavored, full-bodied, super-concentrated white burgundies that display honeyed, orange, roasted nut, overripe apple-scented noses, buttery, creamy textures, super extraction of flavor, and long finishes. The Domaine Leflaive has enjoyed many successful vintages over the years - 1979, 1985, 1986, and 1989 come to mind immediately - but the 1992s are the finest young wines this domaine has produced. Yields averaged 45 hectoliters per hectare, far below most recent vintages. The wines are renowned for their purity and elegance, but the 1992s also display a special level of richness and intensity. Importer: Frederick Wildman & Co., New York, NY.

Anne-Claude Leflaive produced an incredible portfolio of 1992’s and this is just a killer white Burgundy. It has astounding mineralite on the nose that just soars from the glass with cold limestone, a touch of citrus lemon and lime zest. The palate does not disappoint with stunning poise and balance, a life-affirming sense of tension and that crushed stone tincture from start ‘til finish. There is a sense of completeness and harmony here that is impossible to put into words. Brilliant. Drink now-2020+ Tasted December 2010.

Full copper-yellow color. Exotic, musky aromas of ripe apricot, brown spices, hazelnut and frangipane; not a particularly mineral style. Thick verging on heavy on entry but pulled back from the brink by terrific spicy acidity. This wine is fully mature but should go on for another decade owing to its remarkable solidity and piquant notes of crystallized lemon peel and orange zest. Really serious opulence and palate presence here, that much more impressive considering that the yield was a healthy 40 to 45 hectoliters per hectare. Finishes with incredible, slowly building length and an intriguing balsamic note; it's hard to scrape this powerfully structured wine off the palate. (14.2% alcohol; 3.08 pH; September 7 harvest; made from golden raisins picked without botrytis, according to Morandière)

Now in the autumn of its life, Leflaive’s 1992 Chevalier-Montrachet is absolutely gorgeous. Orange peel, apricot jam, butter, wild flowers, mint and honey form a captivating fabric of aromas, flavors and sensations that unfold effortlessly as the wine sits in the glass. The Chevalier captures all of the flamboyant ripeness and exoticism of this legendary white Burgundy vintage as tempered the slow passage of time. Unctuous and sweet, but never heavy, this contemplative, open-knit Burgundy is peaking today. The 1992 Chevalier doesn’t have much upside left, and it may hold on for a number of years, but I wouldn’t push my luck.

Pale gold. Not much nose – a certain sweetness but less well formed than the 1993 – a bit duller and less vivacious. Heat here but a lack of refinement. Big and bold – probably good with food. Savoury finish. Very long. (JR)