This is a Chevalier-Montrachet that really delivers. The 2002 Chevalier Montrachet has a sensational walnut and smoke-tinged nose that is brilliantly focused and vibrant. This just shimmers with tension and develops hints of cockleshell with time. The palate follows through in style: taut and precise and barely showing its age, deep with great intensity and subtle notes of vanilla pod and coconut toward the finish, though they never obstruct the mineral core of this fantastic Chevalier-Montrachet. Drink now without guilt, cellar for another decade likewise.

This was by some margin the best bottle that I've encountered to date of Leflaive's 2002 Chevalier-Montrachet Grand Cru, and the wine is beginning to become very interesting on the nose, wafting from the glass with complex aromas of citrus oil, mandarin, warm bread, fresh peach, pear and vanilla pod. On the palate, it's full-bodied, satiny and layered, with a fleshy, multidimensional core, lively acids and an elegant profile, without the muscle of a vintage such as 2005 or 1989 but with more concentration than a supple, open-knit year such as 2000. By the numbers, it's 14% alcohol with a pH of 3.24.

Complex, precise aromas of lime blossom, peach and wet stone. Wonderfully sweet, thick flavors of pineapple, white flowers and crushed stone, given superb lift by lively acidity and firm mineral spine. Finishes very long and tactile, with a chewy lingering flavor of crushed stone. "This is always low in acidity, along with the Folatieres," notes Morey, "but the minerality gives the wine its spinal column. "

The Leflaive wines were served in pairs, which gave tasters an invaluable opportunity to compare the estate’s Puligny-Montrachet Les Pucelles with the Chevalier-Montrachet across three vintages; 2002, 1996 and 1983. Les Pucelles is a 1er cru and Chevalier-Montrachet is, of course, a grand cru, but in all three flights I preferred the Pucelles for their greater verve, minerality and freshness. The Chevalier-Montrachets favored a more full-bodied, opulent expression of fruit which was certainly magnificent, but offered less complexity than the Pucelles. At this level, though, that was truly splitting hairs as all six wines from Leflaive were breathtaking. The 2002 Puligny-Montrachet Les Pucelles (magnum) was a sensual, seductive wine endowed with marvelous opulence and richness. The wine’s clarity and precision were simply remarkable. Clean notes of minerality framed the long finish. The 2002 Chevalier-Montrachet (magnum) was rich and explosive in its honey, apricots and smoke. The wine revealed tons of inner perfume and a botrytis-like sweetness that was sublime.

A supremely elegant nose of white flower and limestone notes are followed by sweet, pungently mineral and ultra precise middle weight flavors that offer simply incredible focus with an almost painfully intense, stunningly long finish. This|has just now arrived on the front edge of its peak drinkability though some may prefer a few more years in the cellar first. In sum, this is really lovely juice that should age gracefully for several decades.

Gorgeous aromas of minerals, gravel, and spices are found in the big, rich, opulent 2002 Chevalier-Montrachet. Medium-bodied and velvety-textured, this lush, spicy wine coats the palate with layers of toasted minerals, honey, and pears. Anticipated maturity: 2006-2015. To Pierre Morey, the 2002s are “from normal yields and reflect their terroir, two signs of a great vintage.” He went on to add, “Though it was an easy year in the vineyard without any burnt grapes, freezes, or hail, I’ll admit we were very worried between the twentieth of August and tenth of September, when the weather was wet and dreary. Thankfully, we were saved by the north wind.” He added that in 2003, Puligny-Montrachet had battled freeze, multiple hailstorms, and oidium (powdery mildew). Importer: Wilson-Daniels, St. Helena, CA; tel. (707) 963-9661

Very pale. Light nose but very correct and in balance. Savoury start and then very creamy and lemony – humming with life and vitality. Great harmony – just a punch in the face of classic white burgundy, so energetic is it – quite powerful but tense too. Still extremely youthful. Hint of putty. Lovely jewel-bright texture. Racy and full. (JR)