I hadn't drunk Leflaive's 2011 Chevalier-Montrachet Grand Cru for several years, but this precocious, demonstrative vintage continues to perform very well. Exhibiting aromas of citrus oil, pear, white flowers, freshly baked bread and bee pollen, it's full-bodied, satiny and incisive, with a fleshy, enveloping core of fruit, racy acids and a long, saline finish. Impressively, the last glass showed even better 24 hours later.

Tasted blind at the Burgundy 2011 horizontal tasting in Beaune. Anne-Claude Leflaive’s Chevalier-Montrachet 2011 is bestowed with a crystalline bouquet, reticent at first, but then unfurling with subtle mineral notes, licorice, spice and flint aromas. The palate is clean and fresh with crisp acidity. There is more tension here than in Philippe Colin’s Chevalier, with a citric core of fruit, although it needs more delineation and minerality on the rather muscular finish. That will surely develop with commensurate bottle age.

Really pretty, well-integrated nose. Lovely, quite delicate palate attack. Very much a Chevalier. Super-correct and just starting to open out. Everything in the right place. Bone-dry finish with the fruit nicely placed on the way there. (JR)