The 2017 Chevalier-Montrachet Grand Cru delivers a vibrant but reserved bouquet of lemon zest, white flowers and crushed chalk that is still some distance from displaying all its breadth of expression. On the palate, the wine is full-bodied, deep and tensile, with a tight-knit core, searingly intense chalky extract and an electric sense of energy, concluding with a long finish. This is the most linear Chevaliers I tasted in the 2017 vintage, which was typically somewhat more open at the same stage in Anne-Claude's day, so it will be interesting to see how much plenitude it displays in bottle.

The 2017 Chevalier-Montrachet Grand Cru has a clean, precise bouquet, fresh, taut and understated compared to its peers, perhaps the most elegant of an octet of Chevaliers tasted blind. The well-balanced palate delivers real power, offering flavors of candied orange peel and spices and a fine saline undercurrent. Harmonious, elegant yet intense, this should age with style and panache. It vies with Olivier Leflaive's own Chevalier for supremacy, and juxtaposing them blind, it has its nose in front. Tasted blind at the annual Burgfest tasting in Savigny-lès-Beaune.

Precise, high-pitched scents of lemon and lime ice and crushed rock. The palate communicates outstanding stony, limey intensity that's accentuated by an impression of strong acidity. But despite its penetrating cut and low pH (3.15, according to Pierre Vincent), the wine's spine is covered by adequate flesh, even in the early going. Flavors of pineapple and liquid stone are complicated by bracing citricity and a salty element on the slowly rising, palate-staining, utterly gripping finish.

1.8 ha (4.4 acres). Racked to tank just before the 2018 harvest. 25% new oak on the grands crus. Seductively rich and spiced on the nose. Deep and gloriously inviting. Chewy and full in the mouth but with a tension and no fat. Precise and stony on the finish, drawing in and standing upright. Tall and glorious. Deep and long. Fabulous. (JH)