The 2020 Chevalier-Montrachet Grand Cru dominates the range this year, wafting from the glass with notes of waxy citrus zest, white flowers, nutmeg and wet stones, followed by a full-bodied, racy and electric palate, with a satiny attack that segues into a deep, seamless mid-palate. Chiseled and concentrated, uniting texture and tension, it concludes with a long, penetrating finish.

The 2020 Chevalier-Montrachet Grand Cru veers towards a more malic style, a bit lean for its class with some reduction. The palate is well-balanced with a sapid entry. It shows fine depth, though it doesn't possess the mineral core of the previous wine. Nevertheless, it does build nicely, so there is ample weight and concentration on the precise, oyster shell-tinged finish. But it misses a bit of flair; otherwise, it's a higher score. Tasted blind at the annual Burgfest tasting.

12 months in oak, then in tank until bottling. Tank sample. Pure, linear and lofty. Great concentration with citrus and a leesy weight. Deceptively open and demonstrative, I think. Serious ballast in weight and length. Thrilling in its way. (MH)