The 2015 Meursault 1er Cru Sous le Dos d'Ane has an attractive bouquet with yellow flowers, a brush of honey mixed with hazelnut coming through with aeration. I like the vigor shown by this Meursault - it does not hold back. The palate is fresh on the entry with a touch of lemongrass. There is not huge weight or presence, but the acidity keeps this Meursault on a tight leash and it conveys attractive spiciness towards the finish. No, not quite up there with the 2014, but still a respectable Meursault.

The 2015 Meursault 1er Cru Sous le Dos d'Ane is the weak link in the Leflaive portfolio this year, and tasted from bottle, it is clear that it hasn't found the precision that it lacked in tank. The nose is more marked by new oak than the domaine's other wines, offering up aromas of pear, apricot, barrel vanillin and yellow apple; the prelude to a medium-full, ample wine which lacks depth or tension, its finish diffuse and brief. If this judgment appears harsh, it's only because the failings of Domaine Leflaive's lone Meursault are thrown into relief by the superb quality of the rest of the range in the 2015 vintage.

Next to Perrières and Éric Remy feels each year brings more and more minerality. 1995 and 2004 plantings are the domaine’s youngest but didn’t suffer too much from stress, apparently . A bit more savour and creaminess than the village wine is evident on the nose. And a floral note. Really quite generous and with lots of energy. Real substance here. Good persistence.