The magnificent, chewy-textured 2002 Bonnes Mares bursts with roses, violets, blueberries, and cherries. This muscular, masculine, full-bodied effort has enormous depth, power, and intensity. Licorice-imbued bacon, syrupy black fruits, spices, freshly laid road tar, and candied cherries can be detected in its complex, boisterous flavors as well as in its exceptionally long, suave finish. Projected maturity: 2009-2022. Wow! Importers include: Vintus, Manhasset, NY; tel. (914) 769-3000; Atherton Imports, Atherton, CA; tel. (650) 328-6639; and Chicago Wine Merchants, Chicago, IL; tel. (773) 890-8131

(four barrels produced, from two sources) Deep ruby-red. Very pure, deep aromas of black fruits, pepper, smoke and mocha. Highly concentrated, smoky and deep, conveying an impression of brooding concentration and a three-dimensional texture. Thick but delineated flavors of black fruits, licorice, fresh herbs and earth. Finishes with huge but rather suave tannins and explosive, palate-saturating flavors of pepper and herbs.

Good medium red. Wild, musky nose features balsamic roasted herbs, licorice and truffle. Thick, sweet and hugely concentrated, conveying a distinctly wild quality and an utterly seamless texture to the flavors of small berries, black olive and saline minerality. Very rich wine with a surprisingly firm if slightly high-toned back end. At its peak right now.