(I tasted samples from white soil on the north side of the appellation and from redder soil on the Chambolle side, then an approximation of the final blend): From white soil: Bright, dark red. Musky aromas of raspberry and crushed stone. Penetrating, sharply delineated flavors of red cherry, red raspberry and mint enlivened by pungent calcaire . The firm tannin of this extremely mineral wine reach the front teeth. From red soil: Good full red. Higher-toned aromas of limestone and clove oil. Leaner and tighter today than the sample from white soil, with strong acidity and thrust from the active limestone. Most impressive for its penetration and cut. An approximation of the final blend: Deep red. Sexy aromas of red cherry, spices and pepper show a faint medicinal quality. A real high-wire act in the mouth, delivering a rare combination of density and energy to its powerful raspberry, spice and mineral flavors. This taut, brilliantly delineated Bonnes-Mares stains the mouth with perfume on the very long, nobly tannic finish. A real essence of Burgundy.

The 2014 Bonnes-Mares Grand Cru, a blend of the north and south parts of the vineyard (here blended together) has a plush redcurrant, cranberry and strawberry scented bouquet with fine delineation. The palate is crisp and taut with red cherries and wild strawberry, steely and focused with a touch of white pepper on the long finish. This is one of the best reds from Lucien Le Moine in 2014, not a flamboyant Bonnes-Mares, but correct and blue-blooded.