Good full red. Wild, slightly reduced aromas of black raspberry and game. Wonderfully fat, sweet and fine-grained, conveying terrific depth as well as saline energy to its plush flavors of dark raspberry, smoke, chocolate and spices. Ultimately less sauvage and more classy than the Lavaux Saint-Jacques, and perhaps fuller too. This surprisingly refined Gevrey premier cru finishes with suave tannins and sneaky length.

The 2016 Gevrey-Chambertin Les Cazetiers 1er Cru puts in a sterling performance. The nose remains youthful yet well-defined with raspberry and wild strawberry, a touch of crushed stone and Italian deli. The palate is medium-bodied with finely sculpted tannins and admirable purity of fruit, although perhaps I would have preferred a little more terroir expression on the finish. Nevertheless, this is a very fine Gevrey worth seeking out. Tasted at Le Benaton in Beaune.