Red-ruby. Forceful aromas of briary dark berries, plum, smoke, coffee and earth, with the subtle vegetal/herbal complexity that is the essence of this grand cru. Tight and bright, but a wine of great intensity and richness, with compelling chewy depths. Less tasteable today than the Combottes but this has more dimension and class. Finishes extremely subtle and long. This will require patience.

As is often the case, Leroy’s Clos de la Roche was a standout in the 2001 vintage. Its beguiling aromatics burst forth, displaying spicy, jammy cherries and raspberries. Deep plummy red fruits, black raspberries, juniper berries, cinnamon, and a myriad of other spices can be discerned in its gorgeously deep, muscular personality. Lush, expansive, and concentrated, it is a medium-bodied wine with a long, tannin-filled finish. Projected maturity: 2006-2013. Madame Lalou Bize-Leroy liked both the 2000 and 2001 vintages, stating that she was “rather pleased with the 2001s as they will bring lots of joy to those who drink them young” and that the 2000s “are candied fruit, reduction of fruit, the essence of fruit.” Many Burgundians chose to bottle their 2001 early in order to “trap” the fruit in the bottle, but Bize-Leroy beat them all to the punch, having completed the bottling process by early September, 2002. Typically an early bottler, Mme. Bize-Leroy felt that the 2001s would lose their fruit to either oxidation or the required sulfuring if left in the barrel for a longer elevage. Overall, Domaine Leroy’s 2001s are a success, though many were found to reveal stemmy, woody tannin in their finishes. If this characteristic melts away quickly, my scores on those wines will appear overly conservative. Importer: Martine’s Wines, San Raphael, CA; tel. (415) 883-0400