Madame Leroy fashions her Clos Vougeot from three parcels located at the top, in the middle, and at the bottom of this renowned grand cru. Super-ripe, waxy blackberries are intermingled with spices in its expressive nose. This extremely expansive, generous wine is fresh, pure, and boasts superb tannin. It has exceptional depth, concentration, and complexity. Copious quantities of red and black fruits are intermingled with Asian spices in its nuanced flavor profile. Anticipated maturity: 2008-2018. Note: This estate’s 2002s are not yet released. The above estimate is based on the prices of the 2001s, taking into account that the dollar has significantly dropped. Importers include: Martine’s Wines, Novato, CA; tel. (415) 883-0400; and Lauber Imports, Somerville, NJ; tel. (908) 725-2100

Dark red. Reticent nose hints at cherry and licorice. Intensely flavored and dense but austere and backward, dominated by its powerful structure. Hard to taste today, but extremely long on the back end, with noble, thoroughly ripe tannins.