The Leroy 2008 Vosne-Romanee Aux Genaivrieres displays exhilarating vivacity; compulsively saliva-inducing salinity; and profound marrow-like richness. Toasted almond, cherry pit, vanilla, and marzipan add allure, and somehow even the confectionary notes here are integrated harmoniously and harnessed to the wines mineral and meat message and its matrix of fresh red fruits. Intriguing, Vosne-typical forest floor shadings emerge on the long, mouthwatering, buoyant, and invigorating finish. Lalou Bize-Leroy reports average 2008 Pinot Noir yields of 13 hectoliters per hectare, almost absurdly tiny even by her singular standards. Malos were a bit later than usual but were finished by summer, and the wines bottled – as usual – in December. Yet – also as usual – if their development was thereby in any way stunted, you certainly won’t detect it in the bottle today! The best of these display a sense of transparency; levity; and – even when rich and head-spinningly complex – a sheer sense of refreshment and invigoration that I have seldom encountered in other great wines from these sister estates. (Please note that my account of the complete 2007 red collection at Leroy was published in issue #189.) Importer: Martine’s Wines. Novato, CA; tel. (415) 883-040

Medium red. Wild, smoky, soil-driven aromas of black cherry, mocha, spices, pepper and flowers. Juicy and tightly wound, with lovely energy and minerality to the flavors of dark cherry, mint and pepper. Very suave wine, finishing with firm but smooth tannins and excellent length.