The 2020 Charmes-Chambertin Grand Cru has turned out especially well, wafting from the glass with aromas of peonies, sweet wild berries, orange rind, loamy soil and rose petals. Full-bodied, layered and seamless, with velvety tannins and an ample core of vibrant, perfumed fruit, it concludes with a long, seamless finish. This may well emerge as Lignier's finest Charmes of the 2018, 2019 and 2020 trio.

The 2020 Charmes-Chambertin Grand Cru, from Mazoyères, contains one-third whole bunch this year. That comes through on the nose: this will need some time to fully integrated those stems. The palate is medium-bodied with supple tannins, very silky in texture with a slightly powdery, candied finish. Charming, if just missing a little grip that would have warranted a higher score.