For reports and full tasting notes, go toTim Atkin MW's website.

The 2016 Morey St Denis 1er Cru les Chaffots was matured in 30% new oak and includes 25% whole bunch fruit. It has a complex bouquet: blackberry, bilberry jam, cold stone and light undergrowth scents that blossom in the glass. The palate is medium-bodied with very supple, very lithe in the mouth with pure red berry fruit laced with orange zest and allspice toward the finish that fans out superbly. What a superb, delicious Morey St Denis from Laurent Lignier.

(25% vendange entier ; this south-facing vineyard is located above Clos Saint-Denis, at an altitude of about 330 meters): Bright dark red. Highly perfumed aromas of dark raspberry, violet and rose petal. Riper than La Riotte but wonderfully juicy, intense and light on its feet, offering complex flavors of black raspberry, spices, flowers and soil. This classically dry, dense, savory wine boasts terrific inner-mouth tension. Finishes vibrant, aromatic and long. Laurent Lignier noted that this fruit is virtually always picked at a minimum of 13% potential alcohol yet maintains freshness even in hot years.

Just above Clos St-Denis, at 300 m elevation next to an old quarry and facing south southeast. The bottom bit of Chaffots is part of Clos St Denis. 50-year-old vines. Low pHs here. High acid but good ripeness. Well ventilated so no rot. Dark crimson. Really quite concentrated and with marked acidity. Very long and sinewy. Still quite astringent but convincing. (JR)