Whilst I maintain that Louis-Michel was finding his feet in his first decade at the helm of Domaine du Comte Liger-Belair, the 2006 La Romanée Grand Cru is perhaps his greatest success from his early period and augurs what followed. This is consistent with previous bottles: heavenly scent purity on the nose that seems to embrace and “cuddle” the olfactory senses, with layers of red and blue fruit, violet and peony. Stunning delineation. The palate is medium-bodied with a sumptuous texture and immense depth yet with elegance and poise. The satin mouthfeel is irresistible.

Good deep red. Utterly captivating, subtle perfume of raspberry, rose petal, cocoa powder, licorice and spices. A treat to taste today but extremely young and powerfully structured, with terrific definition and lift to the slightly wild flavors of raspberry, orange zest, minerals and bitter chocolate. Finishes with a sappy whiplash of juicy persistence.

Christmas cake, blood orange, mint, white pepper, dried flowers and tobacco are some of the many nuances that grace the 2006 La Romanée. Noble, understated and classy to the core, the 2006 can be enjoyed today, but it remains tightly wound, energetic and could certainly use another few years in bottle. A compelling interplay of exotic spices and bright, saline-inflected notes grace the finish. This is a superb wine for the vintage.