The 2016 Richebourg Grand Cru has a bouquet that rivets you, or your senses, to the spot, delivering a payload of intense blueberry, raspberry and wild strawberry fruit that is bewilderingly gorgeous. Upon further investigation there are traces of orange pith and even a hint of lavender. The palate is medium-bodied with succulent tannins, perfectly pitched acidity, beguiling harmony and an effortless nature that is a wonder to behold. Like drinking a luxurious penthouse apartment overlooking an azure sea. Tasted blind at the 2016 Burgfest tasting.

For reports and full tasting notes, go toTim Atkin MW's website.

(Liger-Belair lost 40% of the crop here, noting that mildew was more of an issue than frost in Vosne-Romanée in 2016; vinified with 30% whole clusters, the highest percentage to date for this cuvée ): Bright ruby-red red. Very expressive and less tight on the nose than usual (due to the stem influence?), offering sweet aromas of boysenberry, cassis and licorice. Compellingly sweet and sappy, showing considerable sweetness leavened by a saline quality. Not as unrelievedly black as the last couple of wines, and a bit less dominated by its structure than it appeared to be in barrel in late 2016. Finishes with terrific breadth, substantial totally ripe tannins and a touch of chocolatey ripeness. Surprisingly approachable today but probably deceptively so.

Cask sample. Bonfire smoke, black cherry and firm, furry tannic grip. Layers of concentration, although not significantly more complex than their Charmes-Chambertin. (RH)