The 2012 Vosne-Romanée La Colombière is wonderfully precise in the glass. Saline notes underpin the fruit in a gorgeous Vosne that impresses for its overall balance. White pepper and orange peel nuances add and attractive element of exoticism to the dark, savory fruit. Over time, the wine seems to gain focus and energy, both of which add to its considerable appeal.

Tasted at the Comte Liger-Belair vertical at the Château de Vosne. The 2012 Vosne-Romanée Les Colombières has a more backward, broodier bouquet compared to the village cru, the fruit a little darker with light violet scents. The palate is medium-bodied with supple, ripe tannin and finely judged acidity, plenty of salinity toward the finish. This probably just has the edge over the 2013 at the moment in terms of tension and should give a decade of pleasure or more. Tasted June 2015.

Single vineyard just below the Clos du Chateau, flat, clay about eight metres deep. Classic Vosne village soil. A bit more closed than the regular village cuvée. Fine boned but incommunicative. Long-term wine. A lttle austere at the moment. (JR)