(bottled in late September): Aromas of strawberry, raspberry and game. Dry but ripe, with good breadth to the plump red berry and smoke flavors. Not a particularly primary style of 2012 but with no shortage of ripeness. Finishes fresh and dry, with a smoky nuance. The highest in pH in the cellar in 2012, at around 3.7. (The round, sweet, lightly gamey Vosne-Romanee La Colombiere was too reduced to assess in November.)

The 2012 Vosne-Romanée Clos du Château again from Domaine du Comte Liger-Belair offers Morello cherries and damp loamy scents on the nose, perhaps just missing a little delineation. The palate is well-balanced with a slightly candied opening, moderate length and density yet it just pulls up a tad short on the finish. Drinking perfectly now.

The 2012 Vosne-Romanée Clos du Château offers a little more depth and textural richness than is often the case, which works nicely to balance some of the more overt savory notes that are typical. Crushed flowers, herbs and dried flowers are all nicely expressive on the lifted, precise finish.