Bright, deep red. High-pitched, floral aromas of cherry, licorice, bitter chocolate and wild herbs. Enters the mouth sweet, but bright acidity, peppery lift and a saline element give this premier cru a rather serious middle. Really saturates the palate on the back end, finishing with repeating notes of pepper, salty minerality and terrific lingering perfume.

The Champans is a little more introverted than the Fremiets, but there is wonderful definition here. The palate has a crisp, mineral rich entry, the citrus element quite pronounced here, fanning out beautifully towards the pert, slightly savoury finish. Tasted January 2011.

The 2009 Volnay Champans shows good up-front intensity but then loses much of its persistence on the mid-palate. The slightly forward nature of some of the aromas and flavors, and the wine's modest structure both suggest it is best enjoyed sooner rather than later.

Pure, fresh and really rather beautiful – notably fresher than either the Caillerets or Taille Pieds. (JR)