The 2010 Volnay Champans wafts from the glass with an ethereal, nearly weightless personality that is hard to describe. There is plenty of length and sensuality, but in a suspended state that seems to hover above the palate. The Champans is delicate, feminine and flat-out beautiful. Anticipated maturity: 2020-2040. The 2010s from Marquis d’Angerville are stellar. They are the product of a year that saw yields lowered by 40-50% on average. It was quite a shock to see the domain’s cellars with so few barrels in them. As always, the wines were made with fully de-stemmed fruit. I will report on the 2009s in the April issue. Importer: Diageo Chateau & Estate Wines, Napa CA; tel. (707) 299-2600

The 2010 Volnay Champans 1er Cru is an exquisite wine that in my opinion surpasses the Taillepieds served alongside. It is just beginning to show a little bricking on the rim. The bouquet is fresh and vibrant with raspberry, potpourri and loamy scents - just so vivid and bright. The palate is medium-bodied with plenty of red berry fruit, slightly tart in style with superb tension and fine acidity. Cranberry and raspberry spring through towards the finish that displays impressive tension. This is maturing beautifully. Tasted an the annual Marquis d'Angerville tasting in London.

Deep, bright red. Knockout nose offers cherry, raspberry, mocha, spicy oak and earthy nuances. Pliant, layered and sweet, with a silky texture given shape by perfectly integrated acidity. (D'Angerville referred to the wine as "curvy.") The serious tannins are virtually invisible today, and the finish is rich, tactile and very long. A beauty.

From Guillaume d'Angerville's favourite vintage since 2003. Bright ruby and intensely perfumed. Spiced cherry aromas. Cool and fresh overall but with very sweet fruit. An impressive combination of elegance, energy and harmony that's already quite open. (JR)