Bright red. Deep, complex aromas of redcurrant, red raspberry, smoky minerality, menthol and musky soil tones. Round, supple and rich; quite full in the mouth but given shape by firm minerality and a vein of nervy acidity. Finishes floral, gripping and very long. Superb and complete Volnay--and built to age.

The 2011 Volnay Les Champans 1er Cru has an assured and sensual bouquet with perfumed blackberry, raspberry and almost confit-like fruit. There is detail and harmony here, the fruit beautifully enmeshed with the oak. The palate is medium-bodied with fine tannin, a silver bead of acidity all bound up in a razor-sharp line of acidity. There is impressive density with red fruit flourishing and fanning out on the finish. Superb. Tasted at Flint Wines Burgundy 2011 tasting.

One of the more accessible wines in the range, the 2011 Volnay Champans is round, succulent and beautifully expressive. I don't quite see the pedigree of the very best wines here, but in exchange the Champans will drink well right out of the gate. The pure volume and resonance argues for a bright future.

Served from magnum. Guillaume d'Angerville rather likes this vintage, which was overshadowed by 2010. Fragrant and slightly more herbal than the 2009, and more delicacy. Extremely fine texture, already silky, perhaps just a little lean on the finish. (JH)