The 2013 Volnay 1er Cru Champans has a feisty, much more gourmand bouquet compared to its siblings at this early stage with almost meaty red berry fruit infused with limestone/flinty scents. The palate is very focused with an abiding sense of symmetry, long in the mouth with fine tannins (although not as filigree as the Taillepieds) but with the same silky and harmonious texture toward the long finish. Excellent.

The 2013 Volnay Champans is one of the highlights in this range. Sweet, perfumed and supple, the 2013 offers gorgeous balance and tons of pedigree. Hard candy, rose petals, spices and new leather are some of the nuances that linger on a finish marked by a distinct sense of sucrosité (sweetness).

(20% new oak): Bright, dark red. Musky aromas of raspberry, tobacco smoke and wild herbs. Lush and large-scaled, showing an almost exotic sweetness and a lot of baby fat in the early going. As much red fruits as black and more harmonious and approachable in the early going than the more minerally Taillepieds. Hints of brown spices and dark chocolate add another dimension. But the wine's strong acidity will need time to harmonize with its tannins. The estate will be in no hurry to bottle the 2013s, noted Duvivier.

Light blueish crimson. Quite a bit of evolution on the nose already. Really very energetic and skittish with some undertow. A strong statement of refinement and no concessions to those who seek simple sweetness. Great sandy texture. (JR)