Bright medium ruby. Mineral-driven aromas of blackberry, cassis, licorice, bitter chocolate and crushed stone, plus a touch of sweet oak. Suave, silky black fruit and violet flavors show absolutely no rough edges. The wonderfully refined tannins arrive late, allowing the fruit to open beautifully on the very long, palate-staining finish. An outstanding wine with a compellingly rich, layered texture, this was racked in July, like the Clos des Ducs.

The 2015 Volnay 1er Cru Champans has a very charming, very pure and seductive bouquet with copious blackberry, raspberry preserve and limestone scents. With a few swirls of the glass it become floral and even more enticing. The palate is medium-bodied with supple tannin. It it not as generous as the bouquet at the moment, but there is purity and verve here, very sophisticated and showing immense precision on the finish. I can imagine this being backward for 3-5 years after bottling, so be prepared to cellar this and reap the rewards later.

The 2015 Volnay 1er Cru Champans is superb, wafting from the glass with notes of cassis, red cherry, raspberry and candied peel that is still very fruit driven, savory nuances only emerging with extended aeration. On the palate, the wine is full-bodied, powerful and muscular, with an authoritative chassis of fine-grained but firm tannins and a deep core of crunchy fruit. This is shutting down, but it's full of promise for the future.

Tasted not long before bottling. Notably dark crimson. Dramatic and edgy nose – almost bitter. Really edgy and pushing the envelope. Seems very ripe indeed even though there is also a lot of tannins. Arguably the most exaggerated of these wines. Drying end. A leap of faith? All potential. (JR)