The 2019 Volnay Les Champans 1er Cru follows the Taillepieds and maybe it should have been the other way round since this is much more closed and broody. Earthy red berry fruit, touches of truffle and bay eventually emerge from the glass. The palate is medium-bodied with solid backbone, not the most elegant Champans as there is a bit of grip and sinew on the finish. But because of that I suspect it will age extremely well. Keep a cellar handy.

d’Angerville uprooted 0.6 ha in 2016; the remaining vines are around 30–35 years. 4 ha total – the biggest holding of the estate. Champans is the archetype of Volnay, he says. Cask sample. Earthy/vegy nose. Powerful rich nose – much richer than most Volnays. Hint of fructose and of chestnut. Juicy fruit sensation. Sappy and tannins very supple. Long, subtle finish. (JR)