Bright red-ruby. Knockout nose combines blueberry, rose petal, white pepper, candied licorice, leather, smoked meat, espresso and incense. Very sweet and spicy but with a light touch. This offers superb intensity, precision and lift, and mounts impressively toward the back. Finishes with silky tannins, exotic spices and outstanding palate-staining length. Magnien told me he eliminated the large grapes to make this wine, vinifying with a high percentage of tiny, millerande berries.

The medium to full-bodied 2003 Chambertin-Clos de Beze offers intense aromatics of spices and chocolate-covered cherries. Broad, rich, lush, and crammed with black cherries, this concentrated effort also reveals a long finish studded with firm tannin. Projected maturity: 2010-2020. Importer: David Hinkle / Peter Vezan, North Berkeley Imports, Berkeley, CA; tel. (800) 266-6585 and William-Harrison Imports, Inc. Manassas, Virginia 20109 (tel) (703) 815-9463.