The 2009 Clos de Vougeot is a big, explosive Burgundy. Dark red berries, smoke, mint and crushed flowers are some of the notes that emerge from the expressive, soaring bouquet. The wine turns more sensual in the glass, revealing the more refined side of its personality. This is a beautiful Clos de Vougeot. Anticipated maturity: 2019-2029. My tasting with Frederic Magnien spanned several dozen offerings. Magnien bottles two lines; the Maison Frederic Magnien wines are made exclusively from purchased grapes and/or vineyards the Maison farms through long-term contracts, while the Domaine Michel Magnien range is made from estate-owned vineyards. In layman's terms the Maison wines carry a white label, while the Domaine bottlings carry a black label. The Maison Frederic Magnien wines are made in a large, more spacious cellar in the same facility as the Michel Magnien wines also reviewed in this issue. In 2009 cuvaison lasted 14-15 days, including a 3-4 day cold soak. The malos were later and slower here than at the Domaine, so the Maison wines received an additional racking prior to being bottled. In general the Maison wines tend to emphasize a more red expression of fruit, while the Domaine wines are more towards the blue/black end of the spectrum. All of the 2009s were bottled in February 2011. Importer: Skurnik Wines, Syosset, NY; tel. (516) 677-9300

Good deep, bright red. Very ripe but brisk and pungent aromas of red cherry, blood orange and high-toned spices. Lush, concentrated and sweet in the mouth, with a pliant, tactile quality as well as excellent energy to the lightly saline flavors of medicinal cherry and fresh herbs. Finishes firm but generous, with hints of game and Asian spices. This wine held up extremely well for 72 hours in the recorked bottle.

Mid crimson. Sweet and beetrooty. Rather obvious oak and a lack of vineyard freshness. But it’s flattering. (JR)