Good dark red. Seriously rich, deep aromas of black cherry, currant, tobacco, chocolate and sexy soil tones, plus a whiff of leather that adds complexity. Wonderfully rich, deep, tactile Volnay with a remarkably chewy texture and outstanding dimension to its flavors of strawberry, redcurrant, mocha, tobacco and cocoa powder. The salty, monumental finish features huge, mouthcoating tannins and outstanding rising length. This very complete wine boasts uncanny depth of flavor, particularly in light of the vintage's healthy yields. By far the best bottle of this wine that I have tasted to date. (13.45% alcohol; September 24 harvest; 41 h/h; 3.37 pH)

A deep rich nose that is very complex with rich blackcurrant and cherry fruits. Peppered black fruits on the palate. Full-bodied with powerful rich tannins, beguiling balance: this is a real vin de garde. Simply one of the best Volnay Crus I have ever tasted.

Harvested 20th-27th of September. The nose on this bottle is very funky and sauvage, showing a touch of volatile acidity. The palate is a different story, with clean, rich ripe fruit and a wonderful stony quality. A second bottle is cleaner and the finish was very long, although d’Angerville notes “it’s not the wine I expected.”

Produced from the Marquis d'Angerville's two hectare parcel, the 1999 Volnay Clos Des Ducs has a marvelous nose of bing cherries, kirsch, griottes, and violets. This wine is medium to full-bodied, gorgeously balanced, and possesses outstanding depth of velvety-textured fruit. It coats the taster's palate with cherries and blackberries, blueberries, flowers, and spices whose flavors last throughout its extraordinarily long, pure, and silky finish. This harmonious, refined beauty has copious amounts of super-ripe tannin that can be discerned under its waves of fruit. It has the density, balance, and structure for mid- to long-term cellaring. Projected maturity: 2005-2012+. Importer: Seagram Chateau and Estate Wines Company, New York, NY; tel. (212) 572-7725.

Harvest 24 September, yield 41 hl/ha, pH 3.37. Powerful. Glowing ruby. Evolved rim. Perfect point of evolution on the nose. Sweet and aromatic-sweet compound that’s almost mentholated. Just very slightly dry on the end but that is to pick holes. Very robust and confident. But it lacks the drive and refreshment of the 1996. Mouth-filling. (JR)