The 2009 Volnay Clos Des Ducs is the only wine in this lineup that is playing its cards close to the vest. Weightless yet powerful, the Clos des Ducs impresses for its striking balance and poise. There is so much going on in the glass its hard to know where to start. Floral notes meld into hints of licorice, sweet red cherries and mint in this crystalline, totally gorgeous Volnay. Today the tannins are impossibly firm, so readers will have to be patient. This is far from an easygoing 2009.

Harvested 10-14th of September. The nose of crushed berries is exuberant, and in the mouth the sensation of explosive fruit is confirmed. A very dense and long wine, but unlike some 09s, it has great freshness and lift. Shows the precision and mineral underpinning that I expect in a great Ducs. This will live for decades, but unlike many Ducs, it should drink well by its tenth birthday.

Medium red. Reticent aromas of redcurrant, dried flowers, minerals, earth and leather; I was reminded of nebbiolo! Then sweet and seamless in the mouth, with terrific minerally grip and spicy lift to the dark cherry and saline flavors. Finishes very long and sappy, with suave, thoroughly ripe tannins. A superb 2009 Cote de Beaune wine to age. Both this wine and the Taillepieds appear to be in the process of shutting down now.

This has a wonderful, well-defined bouquet with redcurrant, raspberry and a touch of limestone. The palate has fine, quite assertive tannins on the entry, ripe raspberry, redcurrant and cranberry leaf, building nicely to a structured, long-term finish. Regal. Tasted January 2011.

Monopole. Lift, freshness and evolution. Racy and transparent. Many-layered. A lovely choice of the Trimbach family to punctuate a dinner of 11 wonderful dry Rieslings, 10 of them Clos Ste Hune, at l'Auberge de l'Ill to celebrate the centenary of that famous wine. (JR)