2011 Domaine Marquis d'Angerville, Volnay Premier Cru, Clos des Ducs

The 2011 Volnay Clos des Ducs is all about texture. Silky, polished and impeccably graceful on the palate, the 2011 presents a finely-knit fabric of sweet red berries, anise, crushed flowers and sweet spices. Today, the 2011 is one of the more accessible recent young Clos des Ducs I can remember tasting. As such, the 2011 drinks well even at this young stage, although I will not be surprised to see it put on weight in bottle. A final burst of the sweet, exotic fruit leaves a lasting impression.

The 2011 Volnay Clos des Ducs 1er Cru is showing extremely well. It is not the deepest in color and the bouquet demands some encouragement, but gradually reveals enticing smoke-infused red fruit, Earl Grey and earthy scents. Conservative and classic in style but very compelling. The palate is medium-bodied with an appealing, fleshy opening. There is a lovely suppleness to this Clos des Ducs with a persistent and seamless finish that flirts with ferrous-like notes on the aftertaste. Wonderful. Tasted at the annual Marquis d'Angerville tasting in London.

Palish bright red. Highly perfumed nose combines redcurrant, cherry, smoky minerals and faded flowers, complicated by earth and caramel nuances. Taut and juicy in the mouth, with a tightly coiled spring of pungent minerality energizing the youthful flavors of ripe cherry, redcurrant, smoke and spices. Much less creamy than the Champans, with a saline calcaire element giving the mid-palate uncanny detail. Finishes sweet, subtle and long, with utterly seamless, fine-grained tannins. With its firm tannins and strong minerality, this should make a great dinner companion--but give it at least six or seven years in the cellar.

From a very early vintage that began on 1 September. Very charming, low-key nose. Pale ruby with a notably light colour, a 2011 characteristic. Round and polished though arguably a little light. Relatively lean but delightfully expressive. (JR)