The 2014 Volnay 1er Cru Clos des Ducs has a very complex and introverted, but captivating bouquet that draws you in, full of blackberry, briary, cold limestone and just a hint of baking powder in the background lending sweetness. The palate is sensual on the entry. There is roundness and depth here, coupled with very good substance, a hint of white pepper perhaps, and as always, with immense precision on the finish. There is nothing flamboyant here -- just a very aristocratic Volnay for long term aging.

Medium red, the lightest of these 2014s. Reticent but highly nuanced nose offers aromas of redcurrant, dark raspberry, milk chocolate, earth and animal fur, plus a riper suggestion of prune (this fruit was picked at 13% potential alcohol). Wonderfully silky and ripe; large-scaled and round for 2014 but not at all heavy. Not as primary as the extraordinary 2015 but the wine's wonderfully refined, thoroughly ripe, late-arriving tannins will require considerable patience.

Lightish cherry. This smells a little riper and more exotic than the Champans but still with pure fresh red fruit and delicate floral aromas and just a hint of spice, even orange. Seductively silky already with tannins that are really fine but draw out the palate to impressive length. Finesse and depth combined here in excellent harmony. (JH)

Protected by the village from hail. Relatively low-key nose. Roses. Really quite open and subtle. Soft tannins. Super-charming but with an undertow of really deep flavours. A soft brush of a feather on the cheek but with quite a charge of tannins and acidity – underneath. Quite complex and intellectual. Tightens up on the finish. (JR)