The 2017 Volnay Clos des Ducs 1er Cru is the famous crown jewel monopole of the domaine, ostensibly the rear garden with its own spring. Initially it is showing some reduction on the nose, although it dissipates with aeration. It is certainly reticent at the moment. The palate is medium-bodied with a gentle grip on the entry. It provides that arching structure that defines this vineyard and gives it its longevity, yet paradoxically the mouth sensation is supple and smooth, with just a touch of spice tingling on the finish. Noble, and aristocratic - just how a Clos des Ducs ought to be.

Bright medium red. Highly perfumed aromas and flavors of raspberry, cherry, licorice and flowers. On the lean side but with firm acidity giving cut to the aromatic palate. All about perfume today, and a bit dry on the back end. A second bottle showed a similar nose, but with some darker fruits emerging with air. It also offered considerably more mid-palate pliancy of texture as well as more stuffing to buffer its tannins. The finish is quite fresh, with nicely integrated acidity. My score, needless to say, is for the second bottle. (13.3% alcohol; the Clos des Ducs vines were harvested on September 7; 42 hectoliters per hectare produced; 3.63 pH; bottled three weeks before our tasting)

Bright, transparent crimson with grainy tannins and exceptionally fresh and racy, but it commands one heck of a premium ... (JR)