The 2020 Volnay Clos des Ducs 1er Cru was picked around 23 August. It has a highly perfumed bouquet with rose petals, red cherries, raspberry and incenses, beautifully defined and wonderfully controlled. The palate also conveys a sense of effortlessness that is utterly beguiling. Very harmonious, balletically-poised thanks to its fine bead of acidity, this Clos des Ducs unfurls in the glass with a lilting, very pure and almost balletic finish. Quite saline on the aftertaste such that it urges you back for another sip. Sophisticated (as usual) yet delicious.

The most reserved wine in the cellar is the 2020 Volnay 1er Cru Clos des Ducs, a promising young wine that unwinds in the glass with aromas of red cherries and raspberries mingled with warm spices, rose petals, raw cocoa and sweet soil tones. Medium to full-bodied, powerful and concentrated, with lively acids, powdery tannins and a youthfully tightly wound core, it concludes with a long, penetrating finish. It's a brilliant effort that will take some time to unwind.