The 2022 Volnay 1er Cru Clos des Ducs is lovely, unwinding in the glass with aromas of red berries and cherries mingled with peonies, warm spices, potpourri and orange zest. Medium to full-bodied, fleshy and pure, with a deep and multidimensional core of fruit, lively acids and refined tannins, it concludes with a long, saline finish.

The 2022 Volnay Clos des Ducs 1er Cru is another to add to the canon of outstanding wines from this monopole . It has retained the bouquet with mineral-laden dark berry fruit, perhaps less tea-leaf scents and more of the forest floor. Very well defined. The palate is medium-bodied with filigree tannins, a little more grip than it demonstrated from barrel with a structured finish. It is unapologetically classic in style, far more reserved and less fleshy than its peers in this vintage, but it exudes breeding.

Monopole. Tank sample. Pale, shaded crimson. Introvert nose that suggests great riches underneath. Big and bold yet somehow still delicate. How did they manage that? A slow burner. Lots on the very back of the palate. Savoury notes overlay obviously ripe but still delicate fruit. I’m not entirely sure it’s worth nearly twice the other premiers crus (priced at £760 for six) but perhaps time would convince me … (JR)