For reports and full tasting notes, go toTim Atkin MW's website.

The 2016 Volnay 1er Cru Les Caillerets has a more mineral-driven, tensile bouquet than the Fremiets. There is a palpable sense of energy from the very start, scents of blackberry and wild hedgerow, almost slate-like scents that lurk underneath. The palate is medium-bodied with supple tannin, finely pitched acidity and it displays more rondeur than the Fremiets thanks to its caressing, très Volnay finish. Excellent.

At last, a wine from the good-value Côte de Beaune. From an estate revitalised by Guillaume d'Angerville, ex banker, whose father died suddenly in 2003. Persuaded to pursue biodynamics by the Anne-Claude Leflaive story. Situated on the south side of village, Les Caillerets' steep, well-exposed slope and poor, stony soil make it one of the finest crus in the commune. Part of the blend is from vines planted in 1990 another part is from 50-year-old vines bought by Guillaume in 2013. All destemmed. Transparent garnet – the palest wine in this collection. Hugely complex nose. Some spice, some herbs. Much more than just red-cherry fruit. Clean and fresh with real vivacity and almost bitterness on the end – in a good way. Finishes dry and appetising. One of the wines in this collection that cries out for food. Such precision – perhaps the result of biodynamic viticulture. Not a blockbuster but a serious red burgundy with more marked acidity than most. (JR)