The 2009 Volnay Taillepieds is a model of grace. Subtle hints of pipe tobacco, herbs, crushed flowers and licorice add complexity to the fruit in this layered, beautifully nuanced Volnay. There is an inner tension in the Taillepieds that propels it to the saline, mineral-infused finish. Anticipated maturity: 2017-2029. I tasted the 2009s from D’Angerville twice recently, once at the winery in December 2011 and a second time in my office in New York. The Volnay, Volnay 1er and Volnay Champans were all less impressive than the first time I tasted those wines, just after botting. Time will tell if the wines are going through a closed phase today, or if I overrated them the first time around. Importer: Diageo Chateau & Estate Wines, Napa CA; tel. (707) 299-2600

Dark red. Perfumed aromas of sappy cherry, licorice and minerals; suggests an almost candied sweetness. Fairly thick on the palate but with nicely integrated spicy acidity and firm minerality contributing terrific verve. This beautifully balanced Volnay really stains the palate and builds slowly on the aftertaste. The mineral, spice and saline elements leave the taste buds vibrating. Unusually expressive for this cuvee at this early stage.

Magnum. Even richer than the Caillerets and considerably less structure than the 2020s. (JR)