The 2010 Volnay Taillepieds is all about inner tension and vibrancy. The aromas and flavors ring out with incredible clarity. Time in the glass allows the fruit to emerge to some degree, but this is another 2010 that is defined by its focused minerality. Simply put, the Taillepieds is striking from start to finish. The 2010s from Marquis d’Angerville are stellar. They are the product of a year that saw yields lowered by 40% to 50% on average. It was quite a shock to see the domain’s cellars with so few barrels in them. As always, the wines were made with fully destemmed fruit. I will report on the 2009s in the April issue.

The 2010 Volnay Taillepieds 1er Cru is much deeper in color than the Champans served alongside. Likewise the bouquet offers darker and perhaps more sullen, introspective fruit: blackberry and bilberry, hints of orange pith and a subtle marine influence. The palate is medium-bodied with supple tannin, a fine bead of acidity, slightly briny in style with a structured and tightly wound finish that just lacks the same joie-de-vivre as the Champans. It is a very impressive Volnay but it may be enduring a sulky phase. Tasted at the annual Marquis d'Angerville tasting in London.

Bright, dark cherry-red. Complex aromas of musky raspberry, black cherry, bitter chocolate and earth. Rich and fairly large-scaled but also quite firm and serious (this recently finished its malo), with a hint of reduction to the dark raspberry flavor. This structured, tannic, youthfully closed wine is totally different in shape and texture from the more elegant Caillerets.

Sinewy, briary with a notably dry finish. Much more youthful than the 2010 Champans served alongside. Rich fruit but for the moment still dominated by fine tannins. (JR)