The medium to dark ruby-colored 1999 Vosne-Romanee Cros Parentoux has a gorgeous nose of intensely sweet cherries. Medium to full-bodied, it reveals a wonderful breadth of lush red and black cherry fruit in its exuberantly spicy personality. Toasted oak and copious quantities of marvelously ripe tannin characterize its impressively long finish. Projected maturity: 2004-2012. Importer: Kermit Lynch Wine Merchant, Berkeley, CA; tel. (510) 524-1524.

Medium ruby, not quite as dark as the Brulees. Reticent nose hints at bitter cherry and espresso. Very intense but distinctly cooler in character than the Brulees, with flavors of bitter cherry and tart berries. Lovely texture and finesse. This shows higher acidity but finer, less severe tannins than the Brulees, and thus comes across as more immediate even if it also rather unevolved.