The 2017 Vosne-Romanée 1er Cru Cros Parantoux is impressive, unwinding in the glass with aromas of juicy cherries, cassis, exotic spices and smoked meats, framed by a touch of spicy new oak. On the palate, the wine is medium to full-bodied, deep and tensile, with good concentration at the core, fine-grained but youthfully firm structuring tannins and tangy balancing acids. As usual, it's one of Méo's finest wines.

The 2017 Vosne-Romanée Cros Parantoux 1er Cru, which had been racked a week prior to my visit, has a detailed and complex bouquet, a mixture of red and black fruit, pressed iris and hints of blood orange. It needs a little more cohesion, but that will come with time. The palate is medium-bodied with supple tannin, the SO2 addition perhaps tightening everything up, as Jean-Nicolas Méo suggests. It displays good grip in the mouth and a solid and quite firm finish. This may require several years in bottle once released. One for those seeking an intellectual Vosne-Romanée.