The king of the cellar is the 2019 Richebourg Grand Cru, a full-bodied, multidimensional wine that evokes aromas of plums, sweet berry fruit, peonies, blood orange and Indian spices. Layered and concentrated, it's textural and enveloping, with an ample core of rich and perfumed fruit that almost entirely conceals its chassis of velvety structuring tannin.

The 2019 Richebourg Grand Cru has a well-defined bouquet that expands with aeration (in this case, while I talked with Jean-Nicolas Méo about jogging). Presenting a mixture of red and black fruit, crushed stone and hints of violet and iris, this is a multifaceted bouquet. The palate is medium-bodied and very different: much more structured, closed and dense. Méo mentioned how mercurial this Richebourg has been in recent days, and I reckon I caught it on a broody day. But there is firm grip and great length. A Richebourg that is beseeching people like me to leave it alone.