Saturated ruby-red. Aromatic and very pure but restrained on the nose, offering high-pitched aromas of dark raspberry, black cherry, flowers, spices and minerals. Impressively concentrated and dense yet light on its feet, with its very intense flavors of dark fruits, spices and flowers enlivened by saline tension. Almost painful in the middle palate in the early going, this wine finishes with firm but suave tannins and outstanding lingering perfume. Méo did not add SO2 in the fermenter because this wine often has "reduction issues." With its fruit of steel, this beauty should enjoy a long life in bottle.

The 2016 Vosne-Romanée Aux Brûlées 1er Cru was difficult to assess out of barrel because of the obfuscating veneer of oak, but clearly what lay behind that was a fabulous wine. Now in bottle, the oak has been nicely assimilated. It offers pretty blackberry, wild strawberry and crushed stone aromas on the nose, very focused but tightly coiled at the moment. The palate is well balanced with an energetic, vibrant opening. This has a great symmetry and focus, a dash of white pepper perking up the persistent finish that fans out beautifully. Superb. Tasted at the Domaine.

For reports and full tasting notes, go toTim Atkin MW's website.