The 2012 Vosne-Romanee 1er Cru Clos des Reas, Michel Gros’s famous monopole to the south of Vosne-Romanee village, has a complex, mineral driven bouquet with black rather than red fruit, touches of gingerbread and marmalade loitering with intent in the background. The palate is medium-bodied with supple, fine tannins and good purity of fruit. It is harmonious and focused with a gentle build to what feels like a structured, saline finish reminiscent of the sea. This is a very fine Clos des Reas: one of the finest and perhaps overlooked premier crus of the appellation. It is always a pleasure to see Michel Gros, with his bushy moustache and face that always reminds me of Bruce Forsythe had the TV star become a winemaker in Vosne-Romanee. “Spring was difficult because of mildew and oidium,” Michel explained as we tasted in his office. “We had to do 13 treatments during the year, which is the most we have ever done. It was difficult finding time to get into the vineyard and apply treatments. In the end the crop was 25% down, about 30hl/ha due to the poor flowering and coulure.” The harvest started on 21 September and finished on 3 October in the Hautes Cotes. As usual, Michel practices a warm fermentation that reached 35 degrees during maceration. “C’etait un vinification facile,” he tells me. I always enjoy Michel’s wine and I agree with the point made in Remington Norman/Charles Taylor MW “The Great Domaines of Burgundy” that stylistically they sit comfortably between the pure, elegant style off Anne Gros and the richer, burlier style of Bernard Gros. His 2012s really hit their stride when we get to Vosne-Romanee, including his monopole Clos des Reas and like Anne, Michel has overseen an exquisite Clos de Vougeot this year. Overall, I found much more to savor in these nascent wines than the 2011s and given their reasonable price tags, come recommended. Importer: Martin Scott Wines; www.martinscottwines.com and also through Thorman Hunt (UK).

Mid crimson. Relatively light nose and much more obviously fruity and opulent than the Brûlées. Polished and with lots of appeal though a little less fresh than the Brûlées. Honest. But just a tad stolid. (JR)