The 2009 Chapelle-Chambertin is beautifully layered with sweet raspberries, flowers, spices and licorice. This is a decidedly rich, racy Chapelle, yet at the same time there is an element of nervous energy that balances some of the wine's more overt tendencies. Today my sense is that the Chapelle is starting to close down. A refined long finish is the last clue as to what awaits once the wine settles down in bottle.

(two-thirds of this wine comes from 80-year-old vines that are routinely affected by millerandage, according to Perrot-Minot) Full ruby-red. Very ripe aromas of crushed stone, menthol, bitter chocolate and peony. Thick, dense and intense, with terrific sap and minerality energizing the seamless middle palate. Powerful, vibrant, slow-building back end features thoroughly buffered tannins that spread out to saturate the entire palate.