1996 Clos de Tart, Clos de Tart Grand Cru

Still deep in colour, with elegant, pure scents more dominated now by refined spice, mushroom and violet than fruit.  On the palate, the wine seemed high-cheek-boned and dramatic compared to the affably generous 2007.  Acidity does the main structuring work here, but it is ripe, resonant, well-seasoned acidity and this willowy wine remains well-composed and scented to the finish.

The 1996 Clos de Tart Grand Cru must surely be considered a failure in terms of the vintage and the repute of the vineyard. It was picked from September 30 to October 4 at 34hl/ha. It has consistently come across as rustic and overdone on the nose, dominated by diffuse exotic scents that now appear to be rapidly drying out. The palate is hard and rather aggressive, completely missing the elegance and finesse that Pinot Noir ought to convey, and leaving a husk on the finish. This was Sylvain Pitiot’s maiden vintage, and I can only deduce that he was trying hard to impress his new employers. Tasted at the Clos de Tart vertical at Ten Trinity in London.

Full bottle 1,352 g. Sylvian Pithiot's first vintage. Shaded ruby – paler than the 1999. Heady mushroom aromas. Utterly hedonistic with great freshness and a hugely subtle, long finish. Utterly gorgeous. Just a hint of brown sugar – in a magical way. (JR)